Growing your own raspberries is EASY!

What you’ll need: Raspberry Plants

Fertilome Root Stimulator T&C Soil Enhancer

Optional: Soil Sulfur

Save-a-Tree Plant Food

Step 1: Dig hole large enough to accommodate roots when spread. Excessively long roots may be pruned to

accommodate the hole. Do not “wad” roots to fit the hole. Plant raspberries 1 to 3 feet apart in the row, with 6 to 10 feet between rows.

Step 2: Set plant in hole just deep enough to cover all roots. Plant at the same depth at which the plant was previously growing. Be careful not to break off any of the white shoots growing from the crown of the new plants.

Step 3: Backfill with soil mixed 50/50 with T&C Soil Enhancer. (Optional… but highly recommended: also mix in 4 tbsp. soil sulfur).

At this point we highly recommend pruning the cane down to about 4” high. This will force new canes to emerge from the roots, which is what you want to get a strong healthy plant.

Step 4: Water in with Fertilome Root Stimulator solution (according to directions on bottle).

If the plant is dormant and no leaves are present, the plants will use very little water at first. Avoid over-watering. Over-watering will only lead to root rot. After growth starts and leaves appear, water when soil is dry on surface. Established plants need about an inch of water every 7 to 10 days during hot weather.

Step 5: Feed raspberries monthly with Save-a-Tree or T&C Fruit & Flower Food according to directions on label.

Step 6: Enjoy your harvest. Summer bearing raspberries produce fruit during July. Everbearers produce in both July and Sept/Oct. See variety list on back.

Raspberry Varieties

Summer bearing- Produce only during July on two-year-old canes..

Everbearing- Produce in July on 2-year-old canes and again in Sept./Oct. on first year canes. Some gardeners choose to cut all canes to the ground in late fall each year. This sacrifices the summer crop, but makes pruning easy.

Hardiness Zone- Zone 3: Hardy to -40 deg. Zone 4: Hardy to -30. Zone 5: Hardy to -20 deg. Pollinating- All raspberries are self pollinating, meaning you only need one variety to produce fruit. There is no harm in planting different varieties near one another.

Weed Control
Weeds (including quack grass) can be prevented in raspberries by applying Casoron granules in late fall or early spring. Be sure to apply after any cultivation, but before new shoots appear in spring.

Grasses that come up in the spring can be controlled with Fertilome Over-the-Top II mixed with Sticker-Spreader. Spray in mid April according to directions and again two weeks later for best results.

Thinning

Allow new suckers to come up between plants in the row, but remove any that sprout up between rows. Unwanted suckers arising too far from the mother plant may be grubbed out as they appear.

Pruning
In the late fall or early spring prune all plants to about 4’, remove
all dead canes, and thin out any weak or overcrowded canes.

Before After

Summer bearing raspberries fruit on two-year-old canes. After harvest, the two year old fruiting canes will die. They should be pruned out in the fall or early spring before new growth starts.

Everbearing raspberries produce in July on 2-year-old canes and again in Sept./Oct. on first year canes. The canes that bear fruit in July can be pruned out in the fall. Some gardeners choose to cut all canes to the ground in late fall each year. This sacrifices the summer crop, but makes pruning easy.